Paperclip-operated power-cut switch (NC microswitch)
null glued a lever-less D2MSL normally-closed switch behind a small hole in the case; a paperclip press cuts battery power when the console locks up.
What it takes
- Disassembly
- Soldering
- Drilling / permanent
- Purchase required
Difficulty 3 of 3 — advanced.
Details
The simplest of the HackerGadgets J6 switch builds: a D2MSL normally-closed microswitch with its lever removed, aligned with a small hole made in the case and glued to the board, so a paperclip through the hole opens the circuit and kills power — no more unscrewing the back to pull cells. selfdestroyer's reply quotes the board's instructions (desolder R14, switch on J6); Codiator notes the D2MSL is sold with and without a lever. null calls it one of the best mods on the console. The trade-off against beams' and davefrommars' versions is one small hole in the case.
Links
Open at Forum threadRelated mods
bryank7bat's take on HackerGadgets' R14/J6 provision: a 2-pin connector on the board and a toggle or push-lock button in a hole drilled in the case bottom.
beams' MSK12C02 slide switch uses the pads HackerGadgets reserved on the NVMe battery board to cut the cells — and the NVMe — without a hole in the case.
A Crouzet 83170.4 microswitch on the battery board's J6 pads, reached through the rear antenna hole, gives a CM5 a reset button without drilling.
The 21700 version of HG's NVMe battery board fits the stock backplate and roughly doubles runtime: 4 h 31 min of 1080p playback against 2 h 27 min on 18650s.
Reference thread for anyone touching the battery board: J1 and J2 are identical, the two 18650s are simply paralleled, and the AXP228 is a single-cell charger.
Swap the two 18650s for a single 10,000 mAh 9858102 pouch — 24–31 Wh measured — but only with a protection board that survives the uConsole's 5 A peaks.